The towering skyscrapers of Hong Kong imposed upon the cityscape in every direction but I wasn’t looking at them. My eyes were fixated on the everyday makeup applied at street level.
The rectangular traffic lights with their circular hoods protecting the red, amber and green lights, the police cars and ambulances, the street signs, the zebra crossings, the double lines and the LOOK LEFT LOOK RIGHT written in cracked white paint on the ground.
It was all hitting me deep in my colonial loss spot.
A few decades of being a part of China again had failed to diminish the cultural similarities. I felt like I was back in England a week earlier than planned.
I was feeling a sense of loss and an underlying pain that this beautiful British city was no longer.
The scenery was both a symbol of the UK’s downward spiral and a realisation that I would be back in that same country in a week.
My head was in a fog of emotion as the taxi pulled up at our hotel. I shook off the thoughts dusting up my mind as I stepped out of the cab and hauled our bags into The Mini Hotel.
The Mini Hotel. I liked the concept. The room was the same width as the double bed at the end of it. It took only ten steps to walk the length of the room, the see-through bathroom also made things interesting.
I sat in bed as Natalie showered. I switched between focusing on the beauty of my girlfriend’s naked body through the glass and the Hong Kong beauty out the window behind me.
The fog had returned. The rest of the day was a blur.
The next morning me and Natalie went to a local restaurant for breakfast. We ordered the milk stuff – milk jelly, milk coffee and tea and the milk bread. It made me joyful for some unknown reason, this assortment of many milks.
We chewed and slurped up all of this milk stuff and concluded in unison that Hong Kong breakfast was pretty fucking delicious.
Over the next few days we explored Hong Kong. Each new historic landmark we visited just strengthened the weird feeling I had in my heart. I was as joyful as the milk made me but the joy was surrounded by some kind of devastation.
The height of the feeling came at the top of Victoria Peak. Standing on a lookout above one of the more beautiful cities in the world. It was such a shame that this city with such a rich history that England had been a big part of was now on course for a full CPC takeover.
The contrast between the crumbling old colonial apartment blocks and shiny modern skyscrapers nearly kicked off an anxiety attack.
It should have been different. Singapore had thrived on its own. Hong Kong would have got on just fine as an independent state. If only I’d been Prime Minister during the negotiations. Hong Kong would have been on a very different path.
I left Natalie admiring the view while I took off to find a quiet spot to smoke a cigarette and have a moment.
That moment didn’t cure anything though, the feeling persisted for days and was on the verge of overwhelming me when I finally found an escape from it around the other side of Hong Kong Island.
.
We were on a small bus making wild swerves along the edge of a mountain.
I always get a thrill out of these kinds of situations. Unexpected near-death experiences.
We were still on Hong Kong Island but a part of it I’d never heard of. Hong Kong to me equaled skyscrapers, here there were none, just lush subtropical mountains and a scattering of buildings hugging their sides.
This place was truly unique with less reminders of imperial doom. My head felt clearer as it smashed up and down and swung from side to side.
One of Natalie’s young students from Canada lived in a place called Stanley on the quieter side of Hong Kong Island for half the year and we were on our way for a lunch date with her family. I didn’t know the student, it would have been a bit weird to know her, she was hardly six years old. I didn’t know her family either.
I always accepted these kinds of social occasions as a chance to practice my internal strengths.
I knew what was coming during this lunch date, small talk with people I didn’t know.
Painful, painful, painful small talk with strangers most likely thinking the same thing as me, ‘SHOOT ME!’ or truthfully ‘SHOOT THEM!’ …..
We ate Dim Sum in a restaurant by the waterfront as I steeled my stomach against the banal conversation. It was as awkward as I had expected.
After lunch the mum left for a doctor’s appointment and we went to a nearby playground for Natalie and her former student to play which left me and the dad stuck together watching on.
The dad looked across the playground and bobbed his head anxiously, “Wow, three years, wow that’s a lot.”
“Yeah, it’s over now though.” I said, wanting my girlfriend to return and end the awkwardness.
We played out the same two lines between us using different words for a few minutes.
I could tell we had similar dispositions. I hated small talk, he hated small talk, but we were forced into it by the absence of his wife and my girlfriend, my girlfriend who was now running around a playground with her former student with no end in sight.
Thankfully after five minutes that felt like five hours the pain ended and we were both released.
Me and Natalie boarded the bus back to the skyscrapers of Hong Kong.
Back into my emotional fog.
“Meet back here in three hours.” she said.
“It will be fun!” she said, she didn’t say that…
We had just finished eating lunch an hour into our day trip to Macau and we were already fighting.
As with most of our arguments I had no idea how it began, but it was now in full blown AHHH mode and being in full blown AHHH mode I had already given up all hope of having anything but a shitty rest of the day.
I decided it would be best to let her go off by herself. Walking around Macau alone and in peace was a better option than the back and forth of an argument I would forget by the next morning.
We agreed to meet back at the same spot, outside the restaurant three hours later.
Two hours later I was on the other side of Macau with no money, no phone credit and no fucking idea how to get back to that same spot. I was also running out of cigarettes which was the real worry.
I had walked from the historical centre of Portugese ruins to the casino district.
The path to the casinos wasn’t a complicated one and there was no obvious reason for my current state of being completely fucking lost.
I went around in circles, one weird plant shaped casino after another and kept ending up back on the same street meeting a dead end. I repeated the routine over and over, changing a street or going back to the last landmark I remembered and trying a new route.
Every single time I tried a slight alteration of the loop I hit the same street, same dead end.
The day had started out better.
…
We took the early morning fast boat from Hong Kong then a taxi to one of the old Portuguese forts.
The Macau skyline glistened below the old fortress and through a thick grey cloud of smog, the place had an air of money and danger about it. A little pocket of sin isolated from the rest of the world.
From the fort we walked into the city center, ate pork rolls and checked out the historic buildings.
Just as Hong Kong looked like it could still be a city of the British, Macau looked like it belonged on the Iberian Peninsular.
We had finished walking around the old center and found a place to have lunch.
It was a small restaurant off on a side street.
After the meal, the argument began.
…
Lost in the streets of Macau, I continued with my futile attempts to find my way.
I thought about going to the police, but what would I tell them?
My girlfriend left me and I don’t have any money on me, no phone that works either, can you take me back to a restaurant I don’t know the name of where I’m supposed to meet her?
I stopped and smoked another cigarette to calm myself down.
As I smoked and sweated out, I got dirty looks from clean tourists that made me angry.
Angry enough to walk every street and attempt to break through the loop over and over and over again until I finally found the street I needed. Victory.
I began the walk back to the restaurant meeting place and couldn’t wait to be back in Hong Kong.
Natalie arrived a few minutes after I got there having gone for a simple stroll.
We continued the argument all the way back to Hong Kong.